To the West Coast Mall for a mammoth food shop, then we went to Cape Columbine. The Ungardener misses the sea, and I love to see what is in flower.
Combing the shore for treasure. Sea shells and sea-urchin’s empty green pumpkin shells, a handful of pebbles, and some Kelp. Kelp that washes up on the beach after winter storms. Lives out its life underwater, rooted on the sea bed. An underwater forest, which can be seen again as far away as the Aleutian Islands in Alaska. Did I mention that the water is cold? Bringing fish. I was sadly combing the shore for plastic flotsam. And discarded snarls of nylon from weekend fishermen. It is a picnic site - there are bins to put the garbage in!
Cape Columbine is a nature reserve, on the coast, just outside the tiny village of Paternoster. Once a subsistence fishing village. Now filled with holiday homes. Named after the British wooden snow brig, which was wrecked there in 1829.
From Paternoster Urban legend has it that the SS Lisboa (1910) was laden with a large quantity of red wine, which stained the sea. Fortunately, a large number of unscathed barrels which washed ashore, were buried by the locals and retrieved much later after exasperated custom officials had finally returned home!
Columbine was the first lighthouse to receive all three navigational safety features, i.e., a light, a fog signal and a radio beacon. It was the first lens system designed for use with a 4kW incandescent electric lamp on the South African Coast. All prior installations had been designed for wick or petroleum vapour burners.
1st October 1936 was the day that light blazed out to the ships at sea. The last manned lighthouse built on the South African coast.
Bietou - Chrysanthemoides monilifera. We have one growing near our front door. It has black berries, which the birds love, so they donated a plant to the last garden. I brought cuttings with me and ours is now a substantial shrub. But growing in the salt sea breezes, these plants hug the ground. Found along the coast of southern AND tropical Africa. African bush daisy to you?
This succulent, with round leaves, creeping along the ground. Delicately formed and marked, lemon yellow petals. Must remain nameless, can’t find it in my West Coast flower books.
Just this one plant was a cushion of pink. The others were just starting to shimmer with colour. We call this huge variety of plants vygies. Sorry not sure which one. Vygie meaning small fig, but more of a First People, subsistence fruit, than one which is actually eaten today. Jewel weed?
You don’t like brash coloured pelargoniums? You DO like brash coloured pelargoniums? This one ‘does like to be beside seaside!’ Pelargonium fulgidum. Luminous red. Stop, stop! One of my mother’s favourites. Found on granite, rocky outcrops from the Orange River in the north, down to Yzerfontein and the Postberg spring flower reserve in the south.
Where the Pelargonium fulgidum lives
Late on a winter afternoon, with a salty mist beginning to roll in from the sea. A bitterly cold wind, couldn’t quite hold the camera steady, between the wind buffeting, and me shivering. That is why the lighthouse leans, just a little. There are spotted Lachenalia leaves, with the first few flowers. And sheaves of leaves heralding the spring bulbs on the way. We live, very happily, close to the glory of the West Coast’s spring flowers. Namaqualand is calling …travelling-to-Skilpad and again Namaqua-national-park
Pictures by Jurg and Diana, words by Diana of Elephant's Eye











What a great post! History and flora. Now I'll have to pay more attention when I'm walking our beaches here to see what is growing and blooming.
ReplyDeleteWow!!! It's so beautiful, and there are a lot of flowers.
ReplyDeleteThank you so much for sharing.
I do love reading your posts - traveling vicariously with a gardener's eye is the best. What a felicitous phrase: Namaqualand is calling - can't wait to see it...
ReplyDeletegorgeous scenery, thanks for taking us on a journey we might otherwise not be able to take
ReplyDeleteLovely to be by the sea with you on your travels and to see how many different plants tolerate that salty, windy locale. Do love the succulent and perhaps it's all the better for not having a name.
ReplyDeleteLaura x
What lovely wild flowers. Thank you for sharing your journey and providing me with opportunities to learn about the flora and fauna of South Africa. BTW...I admire brash pelargoniums, the brighter the better!
ReplyDeleteHave a wonderful time as your trip continues.
I felt the wind, could almost feel the "green pumpkin" of the abandoned sea urchin shell in my palm, and smelled the salt as it misted me and those bright tufts of wildflowers. I have trouble imagining such lovely wildflowers thrive along the seashore, as hereabouts we get mostly grasses in the dunes or marshland on the edge. Quite a different experience.
ReplyDeleteCape Columbine seems so lonely and tough and full of rugged beauty. Thanks for sharing, Diana! :)
Yes to pelargoniums. We had a dog once whose favorite flower was bright red 'geraniums' as we call them.
ReplyDeleteI love that brash pelargonium. Your coast looks wonderful and wild.
ReplyDeleteI too pick up trash when I find it. Why are people so lazy?
Wonderful to see such beautiful wildflowers in such a harsh environment.
ReplyDeleteI like the brash pelargoniums! I think they must be beautiful against the gray rocks. The seashore is lovely. I could feel the mists and cool winds! I enjoyed the story of the red wine and the lighthouse. Again, you bring interesting history and facts about South Africa to someone who knew little about your land. Thanks!
ReplyDeleteLooks like a beautiful place to visit! I love going to the beach in winter even more than summer... its just so desolate and windy that you can't help but feel something powerful.
ReplyDeleteDiana, I love the color of that Pelargonium fulgidum and was also charmed by the Chrysanthemoides monilifera. I'm curious; when you say the water is "cold," how cold do you mean. (Summer ocean temps here are about 15C-20C). -Jean
ReplyDeleteYour posts are always so interesting! I grow Pelargonium fulgidum here in the UK and remember seeing it at Postberg a few years back on a visit. A wonderful red, but quite an awkward habit. It sprawls on my gravel bank, in summer, and sits in our greenhouse in winter.
ReplyDeleteThanks for such regular and fascinating postings!
Jean - The Ungardener says about 12C. That is the cold Benguela Current coming up from Antarctica.
ReplyDeleteI did enjoy this post - but then I adore everything sea related.
ReplyDeleteIt is so beautiful - and you have so much flora close to the sea, fascinating.
K